Just go (travel that is) – how to drop everything & backpack Latin America

Steph De Boer, Mathematics teacher & educational content developer

Steph at Machu Picchu

Wait, aren’t your interviews business focused? Well….Steph and I met on a walking tour in Cordoba, Argentina last year & became fast travel friends, meeting up again in Mendoza (wine country). Steph’s story struck me as one for the telling. She was 29 when she took 6 months off from her day job as a math teacher to follow her calling as a global citizen. Specifically, she backpacked Latin America – proving there’s no time like the present to press pause & hit the road. I anticipate she returned to our neighbor to the north, Canada, completely changed, hence the request to catch up here.

Catching Up

Steph! Meeting you in rainy Cordoba made that stage of my Argentine trek much more memorable. It’s been nearly a year so remind me – when did you turn in the backpack & what have you been up to since your travels?

Well, it pains me to say I’ve turned in my backpack – that sounds so final! But I started living out of a closet again in August 2018. I’ve since returned to teaching high school, coaching basketball and taking sign language classes in Montreal. My backpack is never too far away, though; I’ve still managed to make a few international trips on school holidays.

One of my favorite travel quotes is “Travel is more than the seeing of sights. It’s a change that goes on, deep and permanent in the ideas of living.” Assuming that resonates with you as well, tell us about the process of acclimating back to your “normal” life.

That definitely resonates, and there was a lot of acclimating to be done after being on the road. One seemingly basic thing it took me awhile to get used to again was commercial supermarkets. It sounds odd, but after months of solitude and stringing together meals, the bright lights, tidy huge aisles and endless options were sensory overload.

The biggest challenge though was staying in one place for more than a few days. I became so used to being constantly on the move, meeting new people and seeing new sites, that I really had to learn to be at peace staying still and returning to a routine. In my “normal” life, I don’t spontaneously decide to go for dinner with a group of strangers on a whim…and I really miss that.

Okay, let’s take a step back. What prompted you to make such a big change and hit the road? Adventure? A need for self-reflection?

For me, it was a few different factors. The first was a week-long trip I took to Nicaragua (2017) where I fell in love with the people, culture and language. While there, I met some solo travelers doing long-term trips and upon returning home, couldn’t get the idea out of my head. I felt such a pull to go for it, but felt responsibilities holding me back. A few months later, I had lost out on what I believed to be my ‘dream’ job and was feeling pretty devastated and lost. I started considering the trip more seriously, but still wasn’t entirely ready to make the leap.

What really sealed the deal was a doctor’s appointment where I learned that my left hip was quickly deteriorating (I have a genetic condition called hip dysplasia) and that I would need surgery ASAP. There’s no guarantee this surgery will fix the problem (recently had it, recovering now), so I suddenly felt like a ticking clock with an unknown amount of ‘good’ time left. I knew I needed to go for it and pack in as much adventure as these legs would allow.

Once I made the decision, it all came together. I was working remotely (developing online math content), so it worked to just take the job on the road with me. Traveling really gave me time and space to reflect and re-examine my priorities and when back, I ended up making a shift in my career trajectory that I could not be happier with now.

From the Beginning

Describe your trip – where you started, your route, the highlights. Let all the travelers or aspiring travelers know how it’s done.

I started in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (March 2018) and basically did what is often referred to as ‘The Gringo Route,’ all the way up to Colombia – which in between, included Uruguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador. I originally planned to end in Nicaragua but due to conflict there at the time, made a last-minute change and finished with a month in Mexico.

These countries are all so diverse, be it the landscape, climate, culture, food – I enjoyed it all . Some of my absolute highlights though, in order that I hit them:

  • Iguazu Falls, Argentina – Never would’ve thought one could spend a full day walking around waterfalls, but my jaw was still hanging after 8 hours. Absolutely incredible.
  • San Pedro de Atacama, Chile – This desert in northern Chile offers everything from ‘moon’ rocks to geysers and an insane amount of stars.
  • Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia – 10,000 square kilometres of salt flats that lend themselves to optical illusion photos and 360 degree sunsets.
  • The Amazon, Bolivia – You can enter the Amazon via several countries, but I chose the cheapest jumping off point in Bolivia. The Amazon is everything you imagine it to be.
  • Machu Picchu, Peru – I’ve now been to 5 of the 7 Wonders of the World and this is by far my favourite one. Coupled with the five day Salkantay Trek I did to get there, it’s a highlight of my life.
  • Adventure sports in Ecuador – Paragliding, puenting, and white water tubing for insanely cheap prices – what’s not to love.
  • Colombian culture – Salsa classes (with locals, not the tourist kind!) and snorkeling with tropical fish in picture-perfect Tayrona National Park.
  • Sandboarding in Huacachina, Peru
  • Steph @ Hierve del Agua, Oaxaca, Mexico

All those locations sound truly incredible. What was your favorite spot and why?

It feels impossible to pick just one because they were all so different …but if I could only pick one country to return to it would be Mexico. Everything about the country was a wonderful surprise for me; untouched jungle ruins, delicious food, amazing culture and ideal weather. Most of all, though, it’s home to the very best people. In many ways, Central Americans put North and South Americans to shame in terms of their absolute kindness and generosity. I would encourage anyone who hasn’t been to visit Mexico outside of the ‘tourist’ areas (meaning, areas where English is less common and the hotels aren’t brand names you recognize). For example, the state of Oaxaca is stunning, the jungle ruins in Palenque are one of a kind, and Lake Bacalar is not to be missed.

Challenges

Unfortunately, many folks think of Central & South America as unsafe. As a solo female traveler, did you ever find yourself in an intimidating situation?

Well, as a tall woman with blonde hair & mannerisms that serve as a neon ‘tourista’ sign, I’m always cautious when backpacking. But I honestly find that people will surprise you in good ways more often than not. In that way, travelling always seems to help restore my faith in humanity.

To be a helpful virtual ‘guide’ though, I’ll share that in certain parts of Colombia (namely Santa Marta and Cartagena), there were times I was aggressively catcalled and physically, let’s call it ‘ infringed upon’, in the streets. Even though word on the traveler street is that these occurrences are more bark than bite, they’re intimidating and can rattle you if you’re not prepared.

For women who may be afraid to travel alone: people are generally good, but trust your gut. This goes without saying in any location or situation but senses are heightened in unfamiliar settings – if something feels off, it probably is, so just get yourself out of there. Don’t worry about seeming rude; your safety is more important.

Travel mishap – you had to have one? Or maybe more….

I probably had a few minor mishaps but they aren’t particularly memorable now. However, I did have a major mishap that I’m almost ashamed to admit. I actually fully packed up my bag, said goodbye to all my friends and family, drove to the airport to start my trip…and then discovered I needed a visa to enter Brazil. As a Canadian, I rarely need a visa and don’t need one anywhere else in Latin America, so I hadn’t even thought to look it up – such a rookie mistake. Fortunately, they had just changed the visa process so I was able to get one electronically in a few days and left one week later. I’m so thankful for that mishap now, though, because it led me to the experiences and people that made my trip, including you!

The Unexpected

Glad your mishap led to us meeting as well (and honestly, I didn’t know Americans needed a visa to enter Brazil until recently, either). Okay, on the flip side of mishaps, any serendipitous encounters that gave extra meaning to the trip?

I’m a huge believer that everything happens for a reason, and truly every person I met along the way influenced my life in some way or another. One particular encounter that stands out is from Cali, Colombia, where there’s quite a large population of people experiencing homelessness. One woman in her 60’s and missing many teeth, approached me as I sat on a bench and asked for money. I smiled and apologized, but told her that I didn’t have any. She came back about ten minutes later with a mango, sat down beside me and offered me half. She then proceeded to tell me all about her life, her childhood and her own children. When I eventually had to leave, she took my hand and said, “Thank you for coming to my country. Please, when you go back home, tell everyone how wonderful Colombia is. The world thinks we are a bad place, but we are not.” It’s a moment that really stuck and for me, exemplifies what traveling is all about: breaking down barriers and stereotypes and just feeling human connection.

Love that story. Also, like how you described homelessness as something people “experience,” rather than calling them homeless in that it doesn’t define them. On a related note, in what way did you grow most as a human being while on the road?

I’m fortunate to have grown in two major ways from this trip. The first is that I’ve really learned to not sweat the small stuff and stress about things I can’t control, such as the timing of public transportation. In many places, it is entirely normal for a bus to come anywhere between 5 minutes and 5 hours late, and while that would have many of us flipping out, you look at the locals and just have to think: “If they’re not stressing about this, I shouldn’t be either. It’ll come when it comes.”

The second (and I would imagine this is common) is that I am so much stronger than I ever knew. I generally consider myself a strong woman, but with solo travel come moments where you have no choice but to get through a seemingly impossible situation – and you just do. I realized that in many areas of my life, I’d been consistently underestimating myself and I’m now able to start acknowledging my true strength.

Those are two valuable lessons. In addition to personal growth, you really experienced quite a bit. Can you share your top 10 travel tips – from booking travel to packing and planning?

Steph’s Latin America Top 10 List….go!

  1. Pack light! Eliminate anything you might need and bring only what you will definitely need. Your back will thank you and you really won’t miss those other things (ahem, clothes).
  2. Carry-on. My backpack is carry-on sized and it saves me so much money on budget airlines and so much time in airports!
  3. Packing cubes – the best traveler tool. Not only do they turn your backpack into a dresser, acting as little drawers, but you can also jam so much more into them. My favorites are from a Canadian company, MEC.
  4. Stay in hostels. Even if you’d prefer a private room over a shared one, you’ll save so much money, meet incredible people and gain access to invaluable local intel.
  5. Browse online, book in person. I usually book one night in advance (using Hostelworld or Booking.com) and then extend my stay in person. Hostels will often give you a better deal if you pay in person, in cash.
  6. Know the price in advance. Do a little research online or speak to other travelers so you know the expected price of a tour or activity, and make sure that’s what you pay. Don’t let people take advantage of you as a tourist.
  7. Take local transportation. Tourist companies will market to you that they’re an easier alternative, but local transportation will save you a lot of money and give you a much more authentic experience.
  8. Be flexible. Have an idea of what you want to do, but leave room to explore off-the-map places because there are a lot of these types of places in Latin America. You’ll also find the laid back culture can make it difficult to stick to a tight schedule, so leave room for serendipity.
  9. Learn the local language. Even if it is just a few key phrases, making an effort to converse will go a long way with locals and leave you less vulnerable to tourist traps.
  10. Say yes! When you’re given the opportunity to do something or go somewhere unexpected, just say yes and then figure it out. Those experiences always turn out to be the best stories.

Okay, before signing off, we’d love to hear your favorite travel-related quote and why it resonates with you. I know you have quite a few…thank you, Instagram.

Ah yes, a travel photo pairs best with a good travel quote! It’s hard to choose just one but I’d have to say my favourite right now is:

“Once in a while it really hits people that they don’t have to experience the world in the way they have been told to.” – Alan Keightley

I don’t know if Keightley was referring to travel but to me, this sums up the experience perfectly: you come to realize the way you’ve been experiencing the world is just one of many paths. There’s not just one way to do life, and that in and of itself changes your outlook.

More on travel?

 

 

 

 

Spotlight on Amazon’s leadership principles

Brian Moseley, Partner Sales Manager, Amazon Web Services

What’s it like to work for one of the world’s most innovative companies? Behind any high growth company is a unique culture – we sat down with Brian Moseley, a tenured sales professional in Boston’s tech scene, for his take on the famed Amazon “Leadership Principles” (also pasted below, courtesy of Amazon’s website).

In our first podcast-style interview, we cover personal favorites (“have backbone, disagree and commit”), how some of the principles contradict themselves in an effort to create productive tension and how these principles drive culture – from the narrative process and PR/FAQ to the 2 pizza rule.

Listen here. [30 min]

Customer Obsession

Leaders start with the customer and work backwards. They work vigorously to earn and keep customer trust. Although leaders pay attention to competitors, they obsess over customers.

Ownership

Leaders are owners. They think long term and don’t sacrifice long-term value for short-term results. They act on behalf of the entire company, beyond just their own team. They never say “that’s not my job.”

Invent and Simplify

Leaders expect and require innovation and invention from their teams and always find ways to simplify. They are externally aware, look for new ideas from everywhere, and are not limited by “not invented here.” As we do new things, we accept that we may be misunderstood for long periods of time.

Are Right, A Lot

Leaders are right a lot. They have strong judgment and good instincts. They seek diverse perspectives and work to disconfirm their beliefs.

Learn and Be Curious

Leaders are never done learning and always seek to improve themselves. They are curious about new possibilities and act to explore them.

Hire and Develop the Best

Leaders raise the performance bar with every hire and promotion. They recognize exceptional talent, and willingly move them throughout the organization. Leaders develop leaders and take seriously their role in coaching others. We work on behalf of our people to invent mechanisms for development like Career Choice.

Insist on the Highest Standards

Leaders have relentlessly high standards — many people may think these standards are unreasonably high. Leaders are continually raising the bar and drive their teams to deliver high quality products, services, and processes. Leaders ensure that defects do not get sent down the line and that problems are fixed so they stay fixed.

Think Big

Thinking small is a self-fulfilling prophecy. Leaders create and communicate a bold direction that inspires results. They think differently and look around corners for ways to serve customers.

Bias for Action

Speed matters in business. Many decisions and actions are reversible and do not need extensive study. We value calculated risk taking. 

Frugality

Accomplish more with less. Constraints breed resourcefulness, self-sufficiency, and invention. There are no extra points for growing headcount, budget size, or fixed expense.

Earn Trust

Leaders listen attentively, speak candidly, and treat others respectfully. They are vocally self-critical, even when doing so is awkward or embarrassing. Leaders do not believe their or their team’s body odor smells of perfume. They benchmark themselves and their teams against the best.

Dive Deep

Leaders operate at all levels, stay connected to the details, audit frequently, and are skeptical when metrics and anecdote differ. No task is beneath them.

Have Backbone; Disagree and Commit

Leaders are obligated to respectfully challenge decisions when they disagree, even when doing so is uncomfortable or exhausting. Leaders have conviction and are tenacious. They do not compromise for the sake of social cohesion. Once a decision is determined, they commit wholly.

Deliver Results

Leaders focus on the key inputs for their business and deliver them with the right quality and in a timely fashion. Despite setbacks, they rise to the occasion and never settle.

72 Hours in Nashville

On the road again? Make the most of a business trip

Just returned from a trip to Music City which has me thinking – why not gather business trip highlights to share? Here are a few recommendations for Nashville, the city to which approximately 95 people move per day, according to a 2018 report from the Nashville Chamber of Commerce.

Stay

To mix it up with a boutique hotel that will still earn you loyalty points, stay at The Noelle Nashville (a Marriott Bonvoy property). It’s warm, Southern and edgy, highlighting Nashville’s fusion of new and old. From the property’s top-notch coffee shop – Trade – to its speakeasy or rooftop bar – Rare Bird – with sweeping skyline views, you’ll find yourself immersed in the local scene.

Music

Of course there’s Broadway but if you’re seeking something less touristy (and time’s got you restricted to the city limits), catch some live music at the historic Ryman Auditorium, less than a 5 minute walk from The Noelle. The original Grand Ole Opry, it draws top talent – we saw Mavis Staples & Friends, presented by Newport Folk Festival and complete with guest appearances by Sheryl Crow & Wynonna Judd.

History

Just 15 minutes from the heart of downtown lies Belle Meade Plantation, a self-sustaining non-profit/museum that offers a rare glimpse into the lives of Southern elite & our nation’s complicated past. After a guided tour, enjoy a wine tasting before strolling the rest of the grounds.

 

  • Noelle Nashville
  • Rare Bird views
  • Street scenes

Eat

Nashville’s burgeoning food scene didn’t disappoint. For a traditional “Nashville” environment & bar, check out Martin’s Bar-B-Que – complete with lines out the door, it’s worth the wait (including a game or two of darts). For a more upscale experience, stroll through Germantown en route to Henrietta Red for a farm-to-table cuisine. Start off with a round of oysters before sharing the snapper & lamb (menu changes regularly).

To experience the city’s growing plant-based cuisine, head to E+ ROSE for breakfast or lunch. Both the Greengo Superfood Bowl & Fig Toast made healthy taste sinfully good and watching the steady stream of young, hip locals gave a good sense of Nashville’s vibe.

For dinner, Graze delivers; there are no sacrifices when it comes to taste, portion size or ambiance. Start with the Szechuan Brussels before digging into the Kimchi Fried Rice and top it off with Jeni’s ice cream, right next door.

Other Eats

While I didn’t make it to the below restaurants, they come recommended from various connections so including them here to consider. Bon Appétit, y’all.

  • Pinewood Social
  • Lockeland Table
  • Lyra
  • Cityhouse Nashville
  • Nicky’s Coal Fired
  • Mop/Broom Mess Hall
  • Geist
  • Rolf & Daughters
  • Liberty Common
  • Hathorne
  • The Green Pheasant
  • Chaatable
  • Avo

What mountain are you on?

Have you ever read something that rings so inherently true that you feel the words, paraphrasing Bob Dylan, pour off the page? Rarely, but it’s likely happened. David Brooks’ recent New York Times opinion article, “The Moral Peril of Meritocracy,” rocked me to my core.

If you haven’t read it, it’s a must read.

When I rounded the last line, I realized warm tears were streaming down my face. I didn’t see a final period…I saw the continuation of my own narrative.

Brooks paints the picture of two types of people – first and second mountain people. First mountain people are focused on the self & the climb – “they’re trying to win the victories the ego enjoys,” he explains.

Second mountain people had something happen that “interrupted the linear existence they had imagined for themselves” and highlighted the pitfalls our meritocratic culture.

I’m not quite a full-fledged second mountain person, but I’m definitely done with the first.

My first mountain looked like that of many others – born into an extraordinary family, I enjoyed a memorable childhood. I had hobbies, played sports and worked hard in school. I made friends easily, excelled in college and landed a great job during the 2008 recession. My climb continued. I was promoted, bought my own condo, was promoted again. Because working 60+ hours a week wasn’t enough, I threw in business school! I dated and was blessed with a strong network of adult friends.

But I wasn’t happy. Hear me out – I’m deeply proud of these accomplishments and there were many, many moments of joy but reaching these societal benchmarks did not bring me the overall happiness I sought.

It took meeting a wonderful man – the one piece I thought missing from my life – and still feeling unsettled to come to the difficult realization that I wasn’t comfortable in my own skin. Climbing the first mountain, I lost who I was at the base – a fun-loving kid who wore crazy, mismatched clothes and didn’t care what people thought. I had been waiting for someone to complete me. I needed to complete me.

Realizing you’re the cause of your own unhappiness is devastating. Happiness can be a choice, and I had been actively choosing against it. I finally realized the first mountain wasn’t my mountain and as Brooks says, was ready for a larger one.

The past few years have been transformative. I wallowed in the valley for a bit and then began my second climb. You know the moment – when you stop waiting for life to begin, once everything is in place, and just start living.

Last year, I fell head over heels and while I was devastated the relationship didn’t work out, it was also a relief to know I can feel to those depths. I’m still extremely dedicated to my career, but it no longer defines me. The quality of my relationships does. I’ve never been closer to family & friends and no longer shy away from quiet moments because I like the company I keep and what I see in the mirror.

Like many of you, I’m still seeking the second mountain “commitment” Brooks describes. So, I’m focusing on what lights me up – travel, meeting new people, good food, fulfilling work. I haven’t summited yet but am enjoying surrounding myself with as many second mountain people I can find.

72 hours in Copenhagen

Long weekend across the pond? More doable than you think

Long trips, short trips – we all love a vacation but sometimes it can be difficult to turn off & tune out. Enter the underrated, long-weekend vacation.

Research actually indicates this type of trip may be best – short spurts of recharge sprinkled throughout the year offer more events to look forward to. In fact, we derive nearly as much benefit from thinking about & planning for a vacation than we do taking the actual vacation or basking in its afterglow.

Need some inspiration to pull the trigger? Just returned from 3 days in Copenhagen – here’s the itinerary.

Passport Snapshot
Who: Me (solo!)
What: Long weekend trip
When: Friday – Monday in May (Thursday travel day)
Where: Copenhagen 
Why: Flight deal alert thanks to nextvacay.com
How: Icelandair, $396 BOS to CPH, via KEF
Spend: Approx. $500 (excluding flight)
Tip: Consider a hostel - Steel House Copenhagen, $193 for 4 nights 
Budget: Go cash-free/save on exchange rate with a travel credit card
Fun Fact: hygge, noun: a quality of coziness and comfortable conviviality that engenders a feeling of contentment or well-being (regarded as a defining characteristic of Danish culture)

Day 1, Friday – Copenhagen

  • Kick things off with a crash course in Danish history  via a 10am “Grand Tour of Copenhagen” walking tour. You’ll visit the following & learn your way around: City Hall, Christiansborg Palace, the old City Center, Nyhavn Harbour and Royal Palace of Amalienborg 
  • Refuel & refresh with a sandwich from Bak – local favorite is crispy pork (specifically, pork roast with red cabbage cream & cornichon)
  • Gather at Højbro Plads at 4pm for your second walking tour of the day, this time around Christianshavn
  • End at the Free Town of Christiania to explore the “Green Light District” – the world-renowned commune that ironically, has become quite elitist 
  • On your way back to town, take refuge from the intermittent rain with wine at The Corner & dinner at the Bridge Street Kitchen’s food market. Recommend Grød, Denmark’s take on all things porridge (try the daal)
  • Finally, take in Nyhaven Harbor’s brightly colored buildings, and Copenhagen’s main attraction, during the golden hour
  • Street scenes, Copenhagen
  • Freetown Christiania
  • Nyhavn Harbor

Day 2, Saturday – Copenhagen

  • Start the day with a snegle & oat milk latte at Statement Coffee (Vester Farimagsgade), while appreciating the  modernist décor 
  • For museum aficionados, a visit to the National Museet is worth the time (note: the Danish Resistance museum was closed due to fire during my visit but would have taken its place – Denmark was the only occupied country that actively resisted the Nazi regime’s attempts to deport its Jewish citizens during WWII)
  • For more outdoor adventures, hop on a canal tour. Don’t book in advance, your previous day’s tour guide will likely provide a free voucher. General Tip: bring a raincoat, Danish weather can change every 5 minutes – we were met by rain, hail & sun all in the span of an hour cruise.
  • Head over to Torvhallerne hungry (and with a group) to sample your way through the city’s best food market. Don’t miss the traditional open-faced sandwiches at Smørrebrød (my pick: butter-fried fish) or more porridge at Grød
  • Continue on to the Botanical Gardens (consider packing up food market finds for a picnic) for a stroll around the grounds & Rosenborg Castle, which dates back to 1606
  • Time to rent a bike & move like a true Dane – acclimate yourself on Nørre Søgade (eastern side of the city) for easy riding & beautiful water views
  • Stop for some outdoor reading in one of the city’s many public squares – highly recommend “The Year of Living Danishly” by Helen Russell to learn more about one of the happiest nations on Earth
  • Head over to Bastard Café for board games & beer – yes, you read that correctly

Day 3, Sunday – Day trip to Sweden

  • Easily spend another day enjoying Copenhagen or, for those craving another passport stamp, hop on a train for a 50 min ride to Lund, Sweden
  • Wander the old university town, taking in the slower pace & varied architecture
  • Make your way to Kulturen, the world’s second oldest open-air museum, for an authentic look at how Swedes lived across centuries
  • Wrap up at Lund’s Cathedral dating back to the Middle Ages – don’t miss its remarkable astronomical clock / early calendar
  • Head back to Copenhagen for dinner at Barr, a shining example of new Nordic cuisine. Incredible, locally sourced food (try the cod) & an ambiance that is, well, hygge
  • Note: Consider swapping out the trip to Lund for a longer day trip to Aarhus

Denmark is a beautiful, welcoming country with one of the highest standards of living in the world. As a tourist, you’ll experience all that and more, leaving with an awareness and appreciation of what it means to live danishly (and wanting to come back for more).

Here’s the itinerary as a PDF to easily print/drop into Google Docs to plan your own trip: Copenhagen Itinerary_Spring 2019

For more on Copenhagen travel, The New York Times’ “36 Hours in…” series is a personal favorite. The Copenhagen edition can be found here.