The puns are true – Belize is, well, unbelizeable. Visited a few weeks ago and it was the perfect, easy getaway to relax and recharge post-holiday rush and before setting into my new home in NYC.

Located in Central America, Belize – home to just 320,000 – is bordered by Mexico, Guatemala and the Caribbean Sea. We spent our time in Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, where the island vibe reigns, subtly mixing with indigenous culture. Belize, however, is a true melting pot: the Belizean people come from Maya, Mestizo, Kriol, Garifuna, East Indian, Mennonite, Arab and Chinese descent.

Here’s the itinerary.

Passport Snapshot
Who: Me & travel buddy, Jaimi
What: Getaway between jobs
When: Friday - Thursday in January (5 days, 2 travel days)
Where: Ambergris Caye
Why: Warm weather + post New Years' rush (though still high season)
How: Delta = $880
Spend: $750 per person (including hotel & in-country TropicAir flight)
Tip: Island transportation is by taxi, golf cart or water taxi 
Budget Tip: Wait to book a flight over the Blue Hole - with some flexibility, you can book @ half price the day-of (pending availability)
Fun Fact: Belize was a crown colony of England until it gained full independence in 1981. English is the official language

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Day 1, Friday

• While flight times are short, Belize is a bit of a haul [logistically] from NYC – we traveled Newark –> Atlanta –> Belize City via Delta, then hopped on a Tropic Air Flight to San Pedro (Ambergris Caye)
• Highly recommend taking a puddlejumper flight vs. water taxi to the islands given the incredible aerial views – if you time it right, you’ll fly in at sunset
• Settle into Mahogany Bay Resort – a Hilton Curio Collection property. We scored an excellent $149/night rate (plus a 5 night, get the 6th free promo) for a 1 bed bungalow – well worth it, even if it meant we had to share the comfy king
• Recover from the day’s travels with welcome drinks & fresh ceviche, poolside

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Day 2, Saturday

• Hang onto your hats as you hop on the resort’s boat, which has hourly service to Mahogany Bay’s private island – yes, you read that correctly
• Spend the day basking in the island’s 80’s and sunny average temp, with breaks for shade under one of the numerous cabanas. Complete with a bar, restaurant, volleyball court, hammocks and paddleboards, there’s no need to leave until sunset
• Being the island nation it is, you may experience intense tropical thunderstorms causing you to hunker down for dinner #2 at the resort, and calling it an early night before the following day’s adventures

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Day 3, Sunday

• A 5am wakeup call comes quickly but is worth it for a day on the water visiting The Great Blue Hole & various snorkeling spots
• Amigos Del Mar picked us up across the street from our hotel and took us to San Pedro to meet our group & rent our gear before setting out on a 2.5 hour boat ride
• Watch the sun rise over the Caribbean before arriving to the Blue Hole, a giant marine sinkhole off the coast of Belize. One of the most desireable and dangerous dive spots in the world, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site
• Snorkel the Blue Hole before heading to Half Moon Caye, a private island, for more snorkeling and lunch before your final, 3rd snorkel at Long Caye
• Tip: While the water is insanely clear everywhere, Long Caye was by far the best snorkeling spot (saw a shark and schools upon schools of brightly colored tropical fish). New to snorkeling, this is a great option but if you’re more of a pro and want a shorter boat ride, would do a bit more research for other options
• After a 2.5 hour boat ride back to San Pedro (may I say *bumpy* boat ride), enjoy a waterfront dinner at Caliente – highly recommend the coconut shrimp curry and pina coladas

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Day 4, Monday

• Bike down to Estelle’s for brunch on the beach – don’t miss their fry jack and eggs special. Fry jacks: you’ll love me and your waistline will hate me
• Explore San Pedro, popping into various shops and getting a sense for the local way of life
• Hop back on your bikes and head over to South Beach, a quiet place to relax & read for the day
• Note: we opted out of Secret Beach, given mixed reviews from friends. No regrets, since we didn’t want to take a 45 min ride and since we visited The Split in Caye Caulker – more on that later
• Freshen up and head back to San Pedro for dinner at El Fogon – the live music is excellent and the local stew and drinks are on point
• Note: My travel buddy Jaimi is a classically trained chef and she approved (and chose all the dining locations)

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Day 5, Tuesday

• Time to experience a local water taxi – hop on the Belize Express to island hop over to Caye Caulker, which epitomizes the definition of ‘laid back’
• Stroll the sandy, car-free roads with a drink-in-hand and truly soak in island life – you can walk the whole island in an hour
• Unexpected excursions are the best kind – we stumbled upon a 1pm flight over the Blue Hole with space available and were able to negotiate $200/person (compared to the normal $400/person rate)
• Golf-cart over to the airstrip and hop on a puddle jumper with a local pilot – in our case, Eaglefeather Thunderfoot Hew, born to Chinese and Irish Rastafarian parents (you cannot make this up)
• Take in the awesome, and I mean truly awesome, views of the Blue Hole from above. There’s nothing like it – this is a MUST do as long as you’re okay with tiny planes and okay with a bit of fear (did I mention it was a tiny plane?)
• After circling the Blue Hole and the gorgeous surrounding area, descend (after about 45min total flight time) back to Caye Caulker reveling in what you’ve just seen
• Head over to The Split, head still spinning, and enjoy live music and grilled lobster at the Lazy Lizard (tip: perfect for some drinks and great party vibe but touristy when it comes to food, can get grilled lobster from a street vendor for a fraction of the price)
• Ferry back over to San Pedro for happy hour and drinks at Palapa Bar – head out to the deck after dark to watch the spotted rays gracefully swim about to the tune of you guessed it, live music
• Dine at local staple, Elvi’s Kitchen for a great ambiance and more coconut shrimp curry and pina coladas

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Day 6, Wednesday

• Lay low for your final full day in Belize with a redux of Mahogany Bay’s private island
• Read, nap, volleyball, eat, drink, repeat
• After some quick afternoon thunderstorms, nosh on the freshest sushi at the on-site sushi bar. Lobster sushi? The chef (and my friend Jaimi), highly recommends

Day 7,  Thursday

• After a leisurely last morning at the resort, head back to San Pedro for your Tropic Air flight to Belize City and the beginning of the trek home

Admittedly, I knew little of Belize before visiting but I hope to return. There’s something special about this small, island country – a mix of locals and expats co-existing in a beautiful place – that makes you think about your tiny place in the universe. Everyone seems welcome in Belize, and perhaps Maya Angelou said it best:

“You are only free when you realize you belong no place – you belong everyplace – no place at all. The price is high. The reward is great.“

What can I say – southern charm is real and it’s alive and well in Charleston, SC. Jetted down to the palmetto state last weekend and found myself mesmerized by the quaint & colorful city streets, spellbound & pained by the history and completely delighted by the burgeoning food scene.

The city brims with the kind of facts that leave you wondering how, in fact, you would’ve fared in such an era. Thomas Jefferson and other local diplomats signed the Declaration at Independence at 33 years old. At 33, the only thing I signed last weekend was restaurant checks, giddy with gratefulness to be visiting such an ‘Americana’ city.

Here’s the itinerary.

Passport Snapshot
Who: Me & travel buddy, Rachel
What: Long weekend trip
When: Friday - Sunday in November
Where: Charleston
Why: Why not?
How: JetBlue, on miles = $0  
Spend: $875 per person 
Tip: No car needed if staying in Charleston proper; if visiting local plantations, recommend a car
Budget Tip: Charleston is a foodie's paradise - condense 3 meals/day to 2 and go all out (we skipped breakfasts). Advance booking required for top dining destinations
Fun Fact: Charleston was founded in 1670 as Charles Town, honoring King Charles II of England

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Day 1, Friday

• Kick off the long weekend by heading straight into town from the airport for lunch at 5 Church. American cuisine with a touch of low country flair (try the Fried Chicken BLT), the restaurant & cocktail bar is housed in a former church with dramatic decor (the full text of “The Art of War” is hand-painted on the ceiling’s nave)
• Stroll through City Market, dating back to 1804, to admire locally produced sweetgrass baskets and other artisanal wares
• Wander the 14-block downtown marveling at homes adorned with “Charleston Green.” Explanation: the Union sent buckets of black paint for residents to repair their damaged homes after the Civil War. Rather than use ‘Yankee’ black, residents mixed in a yellow and created the distinctively dark, southern hue
• Check in at Hotel Indigo, Mt. Pleasant to freshen up before dinner (quick, 10 minute ride from downtown, $630 for 4 nights)
• Enjoy a late dinner at Chez Nous, a small, cozy neighborhood establishment featuring food & wine from Southern France, Northern Italy & Northern Spain. A daily,  changing menu – handwritten by the chef – features 2 appetizers, 2 entreés & 2 desserts. We enjoyed the stuffed peppers, beef bourguignon and wreckfish, paired with a buttery chardonnay I’ll be buying again at home

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Day 2, Saturday

• Get acquainted with the city’s history via the Historic Charleston Free Walking Tour. Running from 9:30-11:30am, guide Scott regales you with tales from the European & American history books that made Charleston what it is today, and the dark history that made the local economy hum (did you know ‘cotton gin’ was short for ‘cotton engine’?)
• Put your name in at 167 Raw and enjoy a glass of wine street-side while waiting for some of the freshest seafood of your life. Slowly savor the ceviche of the day before digging into a lobster roll (New England, who?). Tip: Request bar seats to have oysters shucked and handed to you in real-time from the ‘bros’ running the restaurant
• A sobering visit to the Old Slave Mart Museum offers a dose of needed perceptive, paying homage to the city’s enslaved peoples. At one point, as many as 40% of slaves entered the United States through Charleston
• Get to Husk, Charleston’s #1 restaurant, promptly at 5:15pm to add your name to the wait list. If you’re lucky,  you’ll find yourself enjoying a low-country feast a few hours later and remember: if it didn’t come from the South, it’s not on the menu (think catfish, homemade pasta & hers and again, wreckfish)

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Day 3, Sunday

• Visit one or more of the many local plantations, just a 30 min drive from Charleston (Boone Hall is just 15 minutes)
• We chose Middleton Place due to its sprawling gardens and the  House Museum, an original 1755 building. The tour is fascinating and showcases the Middleton family’s way of life and artifacts such as a written travel pass from Abraham Lincoln to one of the family members during the Cilvil War. However, it focuses on the plantation owner experience; to learn more about the enslaved people’s experience, it seems Boone Hall is a better option.
• Consider the 3pm “Savor the Flavors of Charleston” food tour if you’re looking for added context around the city’s culinary emergence. Fun fact, if i recall correctly: downtown Charleston only had 2 restaurants in the 1970’s; today it boasts more than 350
• Hit any last spots before packing up for your early Monday morning flight and dinner / a nightcap at The Ordinary. Housed in a former bank, the tuna toast, shisito peppers and Caribbean syle fish stew with carolina gold rice and the chocolate hazelnut budino – and the entire trip – were anything but….ordinary.

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Other places to consider:

• The Grocery – locally sourced ingredients / top brunch
• Hall’s Chophouse – gospel brunch (Sunday’s)
• Water taxi to Sullivan’s Island and the surrounding area / Fort Sumpter
• Sunset drinks, Shem Creek – Mt Pleasant 
• Magnolia Cemetery

Additional resources:

• https://www.travelandleisure.com/weekend-getaways/weekend-in-charleston  
• https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2016/07/15/travel/what-to-do-36-hours-charleston.html  
• https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-restaurants-in-charleston 

Long trips, short trips – I don’t discriminate. We all love a vacation. That said, there are times when the thought of packing up for a week away seems more stressful than the added benefit. Enter the under-rated, long-weekend vacation.

Reminder from my London post on this topic: Research actually indicates this type of trip may be best – short spurts of recharge sprinkled throughout the year offer more events to look forward to. We also derive nearly as much benefit from thinking about & planning for a vacation – as well as basking in its afterglow – than we do taking the actual vacation.

For me, a trip to Iceland delivered. Feeling adventurous? Here’s the itinerary.

Passport Snapshot
Who: Me & a friend
What: Long weekend trip
When: Friday – Tuesday in April  
Where: Reykjavik + road trip  
Why: Why not?
How: WOW airlines, $259 RT direct flight BOS to RKV*  
Spend: Approx. $650 per person (excluding flight)  
Tip: 53% of the Icelandic population does not deny the existence of elves 
Budget Tip: Iceland is moving to a cashless society – minimize the amount, if any, you get from AAA or exchange in country if needed
Fun Fact: Iceland is extremely expensive due to a unique combination of geography, economics and politics – be prepared to spend $100 on a  sit-down meal for two; save by grabbing breakfast foods & snacks at the grocery store

*Trip was taken Spring 2018 before WOW airlines went under

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Day 1, Friday – Reykjavik

Logistics

• Arrive on a red eye (just 5 hours from the East Coast) to Keflavík International Airport and take Flybus downtown for $20  – buses depart 35 minutes after each flight arrives
• Check in & drop bags at Hotel Reykjavik Centrum, Reykjavik ($175/night)

Exploration

• Get started with a 10am, free CityWalk Tour
• After touring, pause for lunch & top-notch espresso, pastries and people watching at Café Paris
• Circle your way back to Hallsgrimskirkja Church (tour stop) & the surrounding neighborhood to take in everything along Laugavegur, especially the street art
• Meander along the waterfront for incredible views; stroll into Harpa concert hall to admire its impressive, modernist architecture
• Wrap up in Old Harbour for a flashback to the city’s heritage as a small fishing village
• Enjoy the burgeoning food scene with a visit to Saegrinn – this casual joint serves incredible lobster soup. Any and all fish skewers are a must

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Day 2, Saturday – Road trip to Skogafoss

• Start slow with a visit/dip in one of Reykjavik’s public baths, Vesturbæjarlaug. Arrive as it opens for maximum quiet time. Favors functionality over scenery & gives you a native, cultural feel vs. the tourist feel of the Blue Lagoon (which is still a must do)
• Towel off, bundle up and wander over to the bakery directly across the street – the buttery, flaky baked goods pair perfectly with coffee from Kaffihús Vesturbæjar next door
• Pick up your rental car – Avis/Budget will send a shuttle to your hotel (email Budget@budget.is for details)
• You’re off! Iceland is an extremely easy country to navigate – mostly one lane, lightly trafficked roads

Route, Skogafoss & Reynisfara

• Drive 2 hours from Reykjavik to Skogafoss, home to one of the country’s most scenic waterfalls
• Climb the stairs to view the fall’s 197 foot drop & at the top, enjoy a picturesque hike through the highlands (recommend packing a picnic lunch)
• Continue on 30 min to Reynisfjara’s beaches on the southernmost coast. Tall, stone columns and caves are where they filmed Dragonstone from Game of Thrones
• After you’re done sticking your toes in the beach’s famed black sand, settle in for the evening at Farmhouse Lodge, Skeidflotur ($170/night), a farmhouse B&B with water views
• Dinner at Sudor Vik in town of Vik (Get the curry! Just trust me)

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Day 3, Sunday – Road trip to Skafatell

• 2 hr drive to Skaftafell, gateway to Vatnajokull National Park
• Spend the morning/early afternoon hiking Skafatell
• Continue on to an extremely unique Airbnb – Selglbudir, Villa by the River Bank ($190/night). Finding it is its own adventure
• Tip: Lodging is remote so pick up food & wine on way to check-in; enjoy the evening and farm’s views from the hot tub

If you have more than 72 hours…

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Bonus Day 1, Monday – Geysir & Gulfoss en route to Reykjavik

• 3.5hr drive to Geysir – a quick stop is all that’s needed for this touristy destination en route back to Reykjavik
• Continue on 10 min to the thundering Gulfoss Falls to truly feel small amidst nature
• Spend 1hr enjoying the falls before the 1.5 hr drive back to Reykjavik

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Bonus Day 2, Tuesday

Logistics

• Visit the Blue Lagoon the day you arrive or day you leave given proximity to the airport
• For functionality & to save $, stay at Bed and Breakfast Keflavík Airport Hotel, Reykjanesbaer ($100/night – very basic) to ensure an easy morning to Blue Lagoon

Blue Lagoon

• Enjoy the Blue Lagoon early, 9am – 12pm, before flying out
  • $100 per person, book in advance (before you leave for your trip)
  • No need to pay for any “upgrades” – basic ticket includes a mud face mask
  • Tip: Bring a waterproof pouch if you want to bring your phone in for photos, but there’s really no good way to do this & you’ll likely want to leave it in your locker
• Return rental car at airport (pay slightly more for convenience of returning to a different location)

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And…repeat. Will have to visit again for the Northern Lights!

The gems of Medellin and Cartagena offer a glimpse of the best Latin America has to offer. Brimming with hope after a long, complicated history, one of our tour guides, Mari, summarized the locals’ view that we could all stand to learn from: “Extract all the joy you can from a situation because reality will drive you insane.”

From the grit of Medellin to the heat – literally and figuratively – of Cartagena, Colombia is a hidden gem on the verge of discovery. Feeling adventurous? Here’s the itinerary.

Passport Snapshot
Who: Me and a friend, Jaimi
What: Week-long vacation
When: Friday – Saturday 
Where: Medellin, Jardin, Guatape and Cartagena
Why: Craving South American adventure    
How: Spirit Airlines, $993 RT Boston to Cartagena, via FLL
Spend: Approx. $1,200 per person, once in country
Fun Fact: Americans have a reputation for slamming car doors
General Tip: At night, Ubers vs. taxis for safety. Secure a private driver for airport travel & day trips - WhatsApp is a must for communication with tour companies & drivers
Budget Tip: Tag onto an existing Florida trip, if possible, to save on airfare – numerous direct flights to Colombia on Spirit Airlines (pack light/via backpack to avoid carry-on bag fees)

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Hotel Highlight
Sites Hotel, Medellin (4 nights, $398) was a beautiful, affordable option. Spacious, sparkling clean suites, an expansive breakfast spread & a roof deck pool & gym with sweeping city views.

Note: Already had reservations when introduced to the wonderful team at Park 10 through a colleague. The concierge, Fabio, helped us plan many of our day trips when back home in the States via WhatsApp even though we weren't guests. Highly recommend checking out this property due to the friendly staff.

Day 1, Friday – Medellin, via Cartagena

• Upon arrival, head to El Poblado to take in the city’s vibrant nightlife
• Enjoy live music, apps & cocktails at The Charlee and their open-air restaurant (Lucia) to ease into the local scene
• Bar hop until the morning hours with the local, younger crowd

Day 2, Saturday – City Tour

• Start your first full day with the 9:15am Real City tour – “free” walking tour (book in advance, request Mari on-site)
• Explore Medellin’s El Centro, historic districts, public squares and parks while learning about the city’s history, culture and people
• After 4 hours of walking, rest your feet with a leisurely lunch at a small, local cafe or consider packing a picnic lunch for El Castillo’s gardens, which offer sweeping views of Medellin from above
• Experience the Metro – extremely clean, safe & a major source of pride for the city – by taking Line K to connect with Medellín’s famed cable cars
• Ride the metro cable to end of the line, Santo Domingo, for stunning yet eye-opening aerial views of the city’s less traveled neighborhoods
• Wander around the energetic barrio, returning to more traveled areas by dusk

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Day 3, Sunday – Jardin, Antioquia

Logistics

• In advance – book a a full day trip south to the heart of Antioquia with Andes Adventures
• $125 per person – small groups & a private driver; Daniel, the owner, can help customize your adventure & is very responsive on WhatsApp
• The trip is on “Colombian time” – we were gone for 16+ hours but it was worth every minute

Jardin & surrounding area

• The 3 hour drive weaves through the beautiful, winding Colombian countryside, stopping for a break/hiking trek to Taparto Waterfalls (complete with a bumpy Jeep ride)
• Explore Jardin, the self-proclaimed most beautiful town in Antioquia – stop at Macanas for the best pastries
• People-watch in the town square with locals, taking in views of its prized cathedral
• Lunch at a nearby trout farm with your guide (Esteban, we love you!), before continuing on to a coffee finca
• Learn about one of Colombia’s main exports, coffee, and pick, roast and grind yourself

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Day 4, Monday – Guatape

• Hire a private driver to take you to an area popular with vacationing locals – no need to take a tour, best to go at your own pace
• Spend the morning climbing Penol, one of the tallest rocks in the world, and enjoying expansive views of the area’s man-made lakes. Consider renting kayaks once you’ve taken in views from above
• Continue on to Guatape, where you’ll spend the afternoon exploring the most colorful town in Colombia with a Limonada de Coco in hand
• Return back to Medellin early evening

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Day 5, Tuesday – Comuna 13 to Cartagena

• Head to Comuna 13 for an education on a neighborhood that’s been reborn since it suffered collateral damage at the hands of the Medellin cartel
• Spend the afternoon climbing the winding streets, exploring the impressive graffiti art and savoring the sounds of local music blaring through the streets
• Tip: Group/public tours are a good option; we planned ahead for a private tour given it was a national holiday and options were limited. Comuna 13 is safe & can also be done solo
• Depart Medellin for Cartagena late afternoon, arriving just in time for dinner – Viva Air Colombia, 1 hour flight, multiple options per day
• Stayed at Selina, Cartagena (3 nights, $698) – a hostel with a chic vibe, including a small roof deck where you can mingle with other travelers. Given cost, service & amenities, recommend lodging elsewhere

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Day 6 Wednesday – Cartagena

• While not necessary to experience this UNESCO World Heritage Site, consider a free walking tour to get your bearings
• After a morning stroll within the city’s walls, enjoy a refreshing, cold coffee at Epoca, a chic coffee shop nestled away from the main drag
• Meander away the afternoon, taking in the city’s well-preserved architecture & stopping every so often for a drink and appetizer
• For dinner, experience home-style cooking in the modern yet cozy ambiance of Malagana, a personal favorite
• Enjoy a night cap in Plaza de la Trinidad for live music and curbside drinks mixed by locals

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Day 7, Thursday – Islas de Rosarios

• Pre-book a day aboard a luxury catamaran at an affordable price via Bona Vida Catamarans
• Nap on the deck, bask in the sun, take in the reggateon and chat with other travelers over pina coladas
• After snorkeling in the Caribbean, drop anchor to enjoy a crew-made lunch of rice & fresh seafood before you continue sailing around the Rosario Islands**
• Back in Cartagena by sunset, freshen up for roof deck drinks at Mirador, overlooking the city’s main square before heading to La Perla for Peruvian cuisine
• Cap off the evening with music & dancing at Bazuarto Social Club – crowded, sweaty & loud, it’s authentic in very way

** Other island destinations recommended by locals or fellow travelers: Isla Tortuga, Islas de Baru, Boca Chica, Playa Blanca

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Day 8, Friday – Cartagena

• Take it easy on your last day – after Bazuarto Social Club, you’ll be nursing a hangover
• Get lost in the lesser known parts of Cartagena before packing up & treating yourself to a top-notch, goodbye dinner in Alma’s outdoor courtyard

Taking in the last sights, sounds and smells, you’ll start to miss this vibrant country before you set foot on the plane home.

Holiday on a holiday weekend

Memorial Day weekend – the anticipated kick-off to beach and BBQ season yet in cities like Boston, it’s a coin toss when it comes to sun & blue skies. This year, I decided to hedge my bets and squeeze in one last international trip before summer. Boston summers are what we live for and come June, I like to stay local. So, I headed to London – even more of a gamble when it comes to weather and very un-American given the occasion. But, let me tell you, I didn’t want to brexit (it’s okay, you can groan).

Here’s the itinerary – structured to reflect what I would’ve done if I had just 3 days, from Friday – Sunday, and the rest as a bonus. It’s organized (or shall I say ‘organised’) by the most efficient geography which, in hindsight, I failed to do for myself.

[For the record, the weather in London and in Boston was perfect this past MDW so it was a win-win.]

Passport Snapshot
Who: Me (solo!)
What: Long weekend trip
When: Thursday – Monday in May 
Where: London proper
Why: Expiring flight credit – long story, let’s skip
How: British Airways
Spend: Approx. $900 (excluding flight)
Tip: No better way to see a city than to walk it but London is huge – load an Oyster card for easy Tube access
Budget: Wi-fi is everywhere; don’t pay for international data
Fun Fact: Known for its “Beefeater” guards, London is actually one of the world’s most vegetarian-friendly cities - while there, I decided to follow a plant-based diet

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Hotel Highlight
London’s an expensive city, even more so with the current exchange rate. Loved my stay at Vancouver Studios in Bayswater (4 nights $494). The common area was quaint, the staff friendly and it was conveniently located near a Tube station and a stone’s throw from Notting Hill.

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Day 1, Friday – Tower of London, South Bank, The City

• Dive right in with an early visit to Tower of London – allocate three hours to enjoy a free, guided Beefeater tour where London’s complicated past comes to life with tales of royals and traitors to the crown
  • Tip – see the Crown Jewels first thing to avoid crowds
• Exiting the tower, admire views of Tower Bridge and the Tate Modern across the Thames before crossing over Tower Bridge
• Stroll along the South Bank, stopping for lunch as you make your way to Shakespeare’s Globe Theater – take in a brief guided tour or, for theater buffs, consider returning for an evening show (book in advance for both)
• Cross back over the Thames via Blackfriars Bridge to The City [the neighborhood’s name]* to get acquainted with the area’s history – WWII buffs should consider a tour
• Visit St. Paul’s Cathedral which stands proud after numerous WWII bombings
• Close out the day & kick off the evening with a pint at historic Blackfriar’s Pub right near the London Stock Exchange (lady friends, you can thank me later)
• Consider an evening spin on the London Eye
• *Visit The City on a weekday, it’s a business hub and is abandoned on weekends

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Day 2, Saturday – Borough, Westminster, St James, West End

• Wake early and walk through Hyde & St. James parks, past Buckingham Palace to Westminster Abbey to be shocked & awed by both its opulence and reverence
  • Tip: Book tickets in advance for a morning visit to avoid the line – allocate 3 hours to fully explore
• Cross Westminster Bridge to Borough, where you’ll find Borough Market’s endless stalls of artisan fare to refuel – the area teems with “football” fans on weekends
• Heading up to Soho and the West End, stroll around Piccadilly Circus where you’ll learn about Beatlemania’s beginnings and the Great Plague that killed nearly 1/3 of Europe’s population centuries prior
• Enjoy cocktails & appetizers at vegetarian-friendly spot, The Palomar (book in advance for bar seats)
• Close out the day and rest your tired feet at some of the best pubs in London by heading to Covent Garden

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Day 3, Sunday – Shoreditch/Spitalsfields, Camden, Notting Hill

• Sunday’s market day and an authentic way to experience the city
• Start in hip, graffiti-laden Shoreditch where you’ll taste your way through the area’s melting pot of coffee shops, off-the-beaten-path Bangladeshi food, fish & chips, native beigels piled high with corned beef and bean-to-bar West African Chocolate
• Wander Brick Lane’s Sunday market for vintage finds before arriving at Colombia Road Flower Market
• On Sundays, a narrow street becomes more narrow, packed with beautiful, fragrant flowers & vendors hawking their wares in Cockney accents – think “peonies for a fiv-ah!”
  • Tip: Be sure follow the folk music to a small side street for a pint with locals
• For a grittier market feel, head northwest to Camden – home to a gentrifying area & eclectic market. Sample Halloumi fries topped with mint cucumber dressing and pomegranate seeds while browsing classic trenches with an edge, thanks to a growing South Korean clothing scene
• End the day in Notting Hill, walking through the winding, colorful streets before sundown (and wishing you were Julia Roberts or Hugh Grant)
• Grab dinner to-go at Mediterranean-inspired Ottolenghi and enjoy perched on a bench in Kensington Gardens

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Bonus Day 1

• Head north for a half day in Hampstead – hilly views over London and home to many an artist from Keats to Sylvia Plath
• You’ll wander Hampstead High Street – stop for coffee at Ginger & White and a crepe at Creperie – where the winding side streets offer a feel more reminiscent of the British countryside
• Visit Kenwood House, once home to the King’s Royal Hunting Grounds and home to a scene from the movie Notting Hill, for exquisite paintings, including Vermeer’s
• Head back toward London with a half hour stroll to Primrose Hill, reminiscent of Notting Hill with its colored buildings and air of times gone by, eventually arriving at Regent’s Park

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Bonus Day 2

• Monarchy buffs can tour Buckingham Palace – be sure to plan around the 11:30am daily changing of the guards, which you’ll want to see
• Consider the Victoria & Albert Museum in Knightsbridge/South Kensington – in addition to delighting design buffs, it hosts rotating world-class exhibits
• I caught the excellent exhibit “FOOD: Bigger than the Plate” which invites visitors learn about global food system experiments via interactive exhibits

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London is a truly global city – Brits are friendly, cultured and the best kind of brash. While you can see a lot in 72 hours with careful planning, it likely takes at least a week to truly experience each unique neighborhood and allow time to make it outside the city walls to Windsor Castle. So don’t try to do it all in one visit and leave some time to get lost on foot.

Keith Bellows, Editor-in-Chief of National Geographic Traveler magazine, said it best:

“Navigate a city on foot and you feel, intimately, its energy. You connect with the place. You engage face to face with its inhabitants. Neighborhoods become neighborly, and storefronts draw you close. You begin to sense its cadence – where energy ebbs and flows. You smell the flowers, read the fine print on monuments, stumble across local celebrations, lounge on park lawns, eavesdrop on workday conversations, succumb to a nightclub beat, sample an early morning espresso, or simply sit and watch as life passes by in natural high-def … happenstance is the currency of the traveler who chooses to go step by step.”

Here’s the itinerary as a PDF to easily print/drop into Google Docs to plan your own trip: 72 Hours in London_The Great Between.