Steph De Boer, Mathematics teacher & educational content developer
Wait, aren’t your interviews business focused? Well….Steph and I met on a walking tour in Cordoba, Argentina last year & became fast travel friends, meeting up again in Mendoza (wine country). Steph’s story struck me as one for the telling. She was 29 when she took 6 months off from her day job as a math teacher to follow her calling as a global citizen. Specifically, she backpacked Latin America – proving there’s no time like the present to press pause & hit the road. I anticipate she returned to our neighbor to the north, Canada, completely changed, hence the request to catch up here.
Catching Up
Steph! Meeting you in rainy Cordoba made that stage of my Argentine trek much more memorable. It’s been nearly a year so remind me – when did you turn in the backpack & what have you been up to since your travels?
Well, it pains me to say I’ve turned in my backpack – that sounds so final! But I started living out of a closet again in August 2018. I’ve since returned to teaching high school, coaching basketball and taking sign language classes in Montreal. My backpack is never too far away, though; I’ve still managed to make a few international trips on school holidays.
One of my favorite travel quotes is “Travel is more than the seeing of sights. It’s a change that goes on, deep and permanent in the ideas of living.” Assuming that resonates with you as well, tell us about the process of acclimating back to your “normal” life.
That definitely resonates, and there was a lot of acclimating to be done after being on the road. One seemingly basic thing it took me awhile to get used to again was commercial supermarkets. It sounds odd, but after months of solitude and stringing together meals, the bright lights, tidy huge aisles and endless options were sensory overload.
The biggest challenge though was staying in one place for more than a few days. I became so used to being constantly on the move, meeting new people and seeing new sites, that I really had to learn to be at peace staying still and returning to a routine. In my “normal” life, I don’t spontaneously decide to go for dinner with a group of strangers on a whim…and I really miss that.
Okay, let’s take a step back. What prompted you to make such a big change and hit the road? Adventure? A need for self-reflection?
For me, it was a few different factors. The first was a week-long trip I took to Nicaragua (2017) where I fell in love with the people, culture and language. While there, I met some solo travelers doing long-term trips and upon returning home, couldn’t get the idea out of my head. I felt such a pull to go for it, but felt responsibilities holding me back. A few months later, I had lost out on what I believed to be my ‘dream’ job and was feeling pretty devastated and lost. I started considering the trip more seriously, but still wasn’t entirely ready to make the leap.
What really sealed the deal was a doctor’s appointment where I learned that my left hip was quickly deteriorating (I have a genetic condition called hip dysplasia) and that I would need surgery ASAP. There’s no guarantee this surgery will fix the problem (recently had it, recovering now), so I suddenly felt like a ticking clock with an unknown amount of ‘good’ time left. I knew I needed to go for it and pack in as much adventure as these legs would allow.
Once I made the decision, it all came together. I was working remotely (developing online math content), so it worked to just take the job on the road with me. Traveling really gave me time and space to reflect and re-examine my priorities and when back, I ended up making a shift in my career trajectory that I could not be happier with now.
From the Beginning
Describe your trip – where you started, your route, the highlights. Let all the travelers or aspiring travelers know how it’s done.
I started in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (March 2018) and basically did what is often referred to as ‘The Gringo Route,’ all the way up to Colombia – which in between, included Uruguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador. I originally planned to end in Nicaragua but due to conflict there at the time, made a last-minute change and finished with a month in Mexico.
These countries are all so diverse, be it the landscape, climate, culture, food – I enjoyed it all . Some of my absolute highlights though, in order that I hit them:
- Iguazu Falls, Argentina – Never would’ve thought one could spend a full day walking around waterfalls, but my jaw was still hanging after 8 hours. Absolutely incredible.
- San Pedro de Atacama, Chile – This desert in northern Chile offers everything from ‘moon’ rocks to geysers and an insane amount of stars.
- Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia – 10,000 square kilometres of salt flats that lend themselves to optical illusion photos and 360 degree sunsets.
- The Amazon, Bolivia – You can enter the Amazon via several countries, but I chose the cheapest jumping off point in Bolivia. The Amazon is everything you imagine it to be.
- Machu Picchu, Peru – I’ve now been to 5 of the 7 Wonders of the World and this is by far my favourite one. Coupled with the five day Salkantay Trek I did to get there, it’s a highlight of my life.
- Adventure sports in Ecuador – Paragliding, puenting, and white water tubing for insanely cheap prices – what’s not to love.
- Colombian culture – Salsa classes (with locals, not the tourist kind!) and snorkeling with tropical fish in picture-perfect Tayrona National Park.
Sandboarding in Huacachina, Peru 
Steph @ Hierve del Agua, Oaxaca, Mexico
All those locations sound truly incredible. What was your favorite spot and why?
It feels impossible to pick just one because they were all so different …but if I could only pick one country to return to it would be Mexico. Everything about the country was a wonderful surprise for me; untouched jungle ruins, delicious food, amazing culture and ideal weather. Most of all, though, it’s home to the very best people. In many ways, Central Americans put North and South Americans to shame in terms of their absolute kindness and generosity. I would encourage anyone who hasn’t been to visit Mexico outside of the ‘tourist’ areas (meaning, areas where English is less common and the hotels aren’t brand names you recognize). For example, the state of Oaxaca is stunning, the jungle ruins in Palenque are one of a kind, and Lake Bacalar is not to be missed.
Challenges
Unfortunately, many folks think of Central & South America as unsafe. As a solo female traveler, did you ever find yourself in an intimidating situation?
Well, as a tall woman with blonde hair & mannerisms that serve as a neon ‘tourista’ sign, I’m always cautious when backpacking. But I honestly find that people will surprise you in good ways more often than not. In that way, travelling always seems to help restore my faith in humanity.
To be a helpful virtual ‘guide’ though, I’ll share that in certain parts of Colombia (namely Santa Marta and Cartagena), there were times I was aggressively catcalled and physically, let’s call it ‘ infringed upon’, in the streets. Even though word on the traveler street is that these occurrences are more bark than bite, they’re intimidating and can rattle you if you’re not prepared.
For women who may be afraid to travel alone: people are generally good, but trust your gut. This goes without saying in any location or situation but senses are heightened in unfamiliar settings – if something feels off, it probably is, so just get yourself out of there. Don’t worry about seeming rude; your safety is more important.
Travel mishap – you had to have one? Or maybe more….
I probably had a few minor mishaps but they aren’t particularly memorable now. However, I did have a major mishap that I’m almost ashamed to admit. I actually fully packed up my bag, said goodbye to all my friends and family, drove to the airport to start my trip…and then discovered I needed a visa to enter Brazil. As a Canadian, I rarely need a visa and don’t need one anywhere else in Latin America, so I hadn’t even thought to look it up – such a rookie mistake. Fortunately, they had just changed the visa process so I was able to get one electronically in a few days and left one week later. I’m so thankful for that mishap now, though, because it led me to the experiences and people that made my trip, including you!
The Unexpected
Glad your mishap led to us meeting as well (and honestly, I didn’t know Americans needed a visa to enter Brazil until recently, either). Okay, on the flip side of mishaps, any serendipitous encounters that gave extra meaning to the trip?
I’m a huge believer that everything happens for a reason, and truly every person I met along the way influenced my life in some way or another. One particular encounter that stands out is from Cali, Colombia, where there’s quite a large population of people experiencing homelessness. One woman in her 60’s and missing many teeth, approached me as I sat on a bench and asked for money. I smiled and apologized, but told her that I didn’t have any. She came back about ten minutes later with a mango, sat down beside me and offered me half. She then proceeded to tell me all about her life, her childhood and her own children. When I eventually had to leave, she took my hand and said, “Thank you for coming to my country. Please, when you go back home, tell everyone how wonderful Colombia is. The world thinks we are a bad place, but we are not.” It’s a moment that really stuck and for me, exemplifies what traveling is all about: breaking down barriers and stereotypes and just feeling human connection.
Love that story. Also, like how you described homelessness as something people “experience,” rather than calling them homeless in that it doesn’t define them. On a related note, in what way did you grow most as a human being while on the road?
I’m fortunate to have grown in two major ways from this trip. The first is that I’ve really learned to not sweat the small stuff and stress about things I can’t control, such as the timing of public transportation. In many places, it is entirely normal for a bus to come anywhere between 5 minutes and 5 hours late, and while that would have many of us flipping out, you look at the locals and just have to think: “If they’re not stressing about this, I shouldn’t be either. It’ll come when it comes.”
The second (and I would imagine this is common) is that I am so much stronger than I ever knew. I generally consider myself a strong woman, but with solo travel come moments where you have no choice but to get through a seemingly impossible situation – and you just do. I realized that in many areas of my life, I’d been consistently underestimating myself and I’m now able to start acknowledging my true strength.
Those are two valuable lessons. In addition to personal growth, you really experienced quite a bit. Can you share your top 10 travel tips – from booking travel to packing and planning?
Steph’s Latin America Top 10 List….go!
- Pack light! Eliminate anything you might need and bring only what you will definitely need. Your back will thank you and you really won’t miss those other things (ahem, clothes).
- Carry-on. My backpack is carry-on sized and it saves me so much money on budget airlines and so much time in airports!
- Packing cubes – the best traveler tool. Not only do they turn your backpack into a dresser, acting as little drawers, but you can also jam so much more into them. My favorites are from a Canadian company, MEC.
- Stay in hostels. Even if you’d prefer a private room over a shared one, you’ll save so much money, meet incredible people and gain access to invaluable local intel.
- Browse online, book in person. I usually book one night in advance (using Hostelworld or Booking.com) and then extend my stay in person. Hostels will often give you a better deal if you pay in person, in cash.
- Know the price in advance. Do a little research online or speak to other travelers so you know the expected price of a tour or activity, and make sure that’s what you pay. Don’t let people take advantage of you as a tourist.
- Take local transportation. Tourist companies will market to you that they’re an easier alternative, but local transportation will save you a lot of money and give you a much more authentic experience.
- Be flexible. Have an idea of what you want to do, but leave room to explore off-the-map places because there are a lot of these types of places in Latin America. You’ll also find the laid back culture can make it difficult to stick to a tight schedule, so leave room for serendipity.
- Learn the local language. Even if it is just a few key phrases, making an effort to converse will go a long way with locals and leave you less vulnerable to tourist traps.
- Say yes! When you’re given the opportunity to do something or go somewhere unexpected, just say yes and then figure it out. Those experiences always turn out to be the best stories.
Okay, before signing off, we’d love to hear your favorite travel-related quote and why it resonates with you. I know you have quite a few…thank you, Instagram.
Ah yes, a travel photo pairs best with a good travel quote! It’s hard to choose just one but I’d have to say my favourite right now is:
“Once in a while it really hits people that they don’t have to experience the world in the way they have been told to.” – Alan Keightley
I don’t know if Keightley was referring to travel but to me, this sums up the experience perfectly: you come to realize the way you’ve been experiencing the world is just one of many paths. There’s not just one way to do life, and that in and of itself changes your outlook.
More on travel?
